Even the smallest and simplest pastry can elicit great enjoyment. The proof is the madeleine, a small sponge cake made with melted butter, flour, sugar and eggs. Baking in oval, grooved moulds forms the shell-like appearance with a puffed center. This shape resembles the shell of scallops or Coquille St. Jacques.
The origin of madeleines dates back well before Proust wrote about them in the early 1900s, but their exact origin is disputed. Some sources say Jean Avice, the pastry chef for Prince Talleyrand in the 19th century, developed madeleines. Others attribute them to the French town of Commercy in the northeastern department of Meuse. One legend tells the story that in 1755, the duke of the region, Stanislas Leczynska, was visiting a castle and was served a delicious little cake prepared by a girl named Madeleine. The duke's daughter, Marie, who was married to Louis XV, then supposedly popularized the recipe in Versailles. Another variation suggests that Marie's own cook, named Madeleine, created the treat.
Tea, such as an herbal tilleul, or dried blossoms from the linden tree, complements the flavor of this petit four. The slight lime flavor of the tilleul infusion brings out the subtle lemon or orange flavor of the cake and is a common breakfast or teatime treat in France. Marcel Proust described tasting the madeleine with tea in Swann's Way, the first volume of the significant À la Recherche du Temps Perdu, commonly translated as Remembrance of Things Past. He described the bite of a madeleine as “delicious pleasure invaded my senses.” Tasting the little cake inspired revelatory feelings and a flood of memories from his childhood.
When preparing your own madeleines, remember a few key tips to produce the best flavor and texture. Do not over-whip the eggs; whip just until frothy. Fold the mixture very delicately without over-folding. After baking, cover madeleines while they are still hot, so the steam keeps them moist and extends freshness. Once cooled and packaged, madeleines can stay fresh for two to three days, but are best when consumed freshly baked.
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Mix the eggs and sugar together until a light ribbon stage, and add the rest of the ingredients according to the formula.
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Pipe the batter into the buttered madeleine moulds.
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Bake madeleines in a 375°F (190°C) convection oven, vent closed, for about nine minutes.
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Unmould the madeleines while they are still hot.
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The shell shape of the madeleines makes an attractive cookie for parties.
Chef John Kraus, pastry chef and instructor at The French Pastry School at City Colleges of Chicago teaches his students the art of pastry that includes advanced bread techniques. In 2005 and 2006, Chef Kraus was named one of the Top Ten Pastry Chefs in the United States by a national pastry magazine. For more information on The French Pastry School, visit www.frenchpastryschool.com.
