The Workbench - 12/2011


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Q: We have recently added a few savory bakery items, but are in unfamiliar territory with some of the equipment needed. How do we choose the best chef’s knife?

Elena, via email

A: Knives are a piece of art, so take your time when buying one. Don’t be afraid to try different models and manufacturers, but stay away from “cheap” knives. Try knives with weights between 6 and 11.25 ozs. (170 to 320 g). Handle shapes, length of handle and how the knife is balanced also are important.

Q: How do we achieve a brittle, meringue-like surface on a brownie? Our brownies have a matte appearance.

Lucy, via email

A: The delicate, crisp crust results from not only blending beaten eggs into melted chocolate, but vigorously beating them, creating a meringuey effect when baked. If you want more of a matte finish and a less-brittle brownie, don’t beat the ingredients, just blend them.

Q: Is powdered pectin interchangeable with liquid pectin?

Alida, via email

A: No, they are not interchangeable, and you should use only the type called for in your formula. The liquid version is always added after boiling, while most types of powdered are added to the raw fruit or juice at the beginning of the production process.

Q: We bought a large quantity of paprika a few months ago, and it has lost most of its color. Is this normal?

S.W., Hamburg N.Y.

A: Paprika is light sensitive and needs to be protected against direct exposure to sunlight and fluorescent lights. It should be stored in a cool, dry place that is no warmer than 68°F (20°C) and a relative humidity under 60 percent. If possible, cold storage, 32°F to 45°F (0°C to 7°C), is best. At temperatures of 70°F to 80°F (21°C to 27°C), paprika will lose about 1 percent of its color every 10 days. At higher temperatures, color loss is more rapid. In cold storage, however, paprika’s color loss is reduced to one-half percent every 10 days and can be stored with minimal color loss for six months.

Q: Baby blue and pinkish eggs are the new craze in our town. Are these natural or have they been colored?

P.Y., Sheboygan, Wis.

A: The Cuckoo Maran hen lays deep cocoa-colored eggs, the Plymouth Rock hen lays pinkish ones and the Ameraucana and Araucana hens lay a range from pale celadon to rich baby blue eggs. Much research has been done on the nutritional benefit on these eggs, but I like them for their appearance, especially when used as a whole hard-boiled egg.

Question # 7:

Have you used paper baking cups instead of greasing a muffin pan?

Prasad Yadavali, via e-mail

Answer # 7:

Paper muffin cups are a standard tool that just about every baker will keep on hand in their kitchen. Perfect for muffins or cupcakes, the eliminate the need to grease a pan and ensure that your baked goods won’t have anything to stick to when it comes time to take them out of the pan. Muffin cups also make baked goods much more portable and loaf pans, bundt pans and round cake pans are just a few of the shapes that these paper pans come in. These pans are designed to do the exact same thing that paper muffin cups are: eliminate the need to grease a large pan and make the baked goods easier to transport. The paper baking liners are similar to parchment paper and will not burn in the oven unless exposed to very high temperatures (most are perfectly safe up to about 400°F/205°C), so there are good for just about any baking application.

Q: Can you provide a scones formula with raisins and a hint of citrus?

T.S., Akron, Ohio

A: This formula should work perfectly for you.

Raisin citrus scones

Ingredients Lbs. Ozs. Metric Bakers %

Pastry flour, sifted 4 8 2.04 kg 100 Baking powder 1.5 45 g 2.21

Baking soda 0.5 12 g 0.59

Sugar 10.5 300 g 14.71

Salt 0.75 21 g 1.03

Butter, unsalted, 1 11 765 g 37.50 cold and cubed

Raisins, golden 1 5 600 g 29.41

Lemon zest, grated 0.5 15 g 0.74

Orange zest, grated 0.5 15 g 0.74

Buttermilk 2 7.5 1.125 L 55.15

Vanilla extract 0.5 15 ml 0.74

Total appr. wt. 10 14.25 4.953 kg 242.82

Method: Sift the flour, baking powder and baking soda; add sugar and salt. Place dry ingredients in a mixing bowl; add cold cubed butter. Using a paddle attachment, blend until mixture resembles coarse meal. Combine vanilla, lemon and orange zest with buttermilk, and add to dry ingredients until a soft dough forms. Proceed to cut scones. Brush top with egg wash. Bake at 400°F (205°C) for 10 to 12 minutes.

Question # 9:

Why is hot milk used in some sponge cake formulas?

Jeniffer Alvarado Trucíos, San Diego, CA

Answer # 9:

Hot milk sponge cakes use scalded milk to warm the eggs. Warmed eggs hold more air and create more volume when they’re whipped than cold eggs. Use a stainless steel bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Sugar has an insulating effect, and helps protect the eggs from coagulating over the heat. Add a small amount of the sugar from the formula into your egg whites, and whisk it in. Keep whisking the eggs while you heat them, testing now and then with your fingertip until they feel warm to the touch. When the egg whites (or yolks--whatever you’re heating) are warm, transfer them to your mixing bowl and whip until medium-stiff peaks form.

Q: Can simple syrup be modified to include flavorings?

K.B., Milwaukee

A: Adding fruit juices to simple syrup will enhance its flavor profile. Below is an easy formula to use to add flavor to simple syrup.

Flavored simple syrup

Ingredients Lbs. Ozs. Metric

Fruit juice* 2 3.25 1 L

Simple syrup 2 3.25 1 L

Water 7 200 ml

Total appr. wt. 2 13.5 2.2 L

Method: Combine all ingredients.

*Orange, lemon, lime or other fruit juices are commonly used, but others can be used as well.

 

Question # 10: (October)

We recently had a request for a croquembouche, but struggled making the spun sugar which decorates the cake. Can you provide us with a formula for the sugar topping?

Leo Berger, Blackfoot Idaho

Answer # 10:

I have used the formula below with great success to make spun sugar to decorate a croquembouches.

Ingredients American Metric Yield

Sugar, cubes 2 lbs 3.05 oz 1000 g 62.50 %

Water 12.25 oz 350 ml 21.87 %

Glucose 8.75 oz 250 g 15.63 %

Total 3 lbs 8.05 oz 1600 g 100.00 %

Combine all ingredients in a copper pot and cook to 155°C/ 311°F. When the temperature is reached dip the bottom of the pot into ice water for a few seconds to stop the cooking. Set aside for five minutes to rest. After resting the sugar should be fluid but slightly thickened. Use a whisk with the rounded ends cut off to create a long, straight rods to dip into the sugar. Wave the whish clockwise as well as forth and back over the croquembouche to create long decorative threats.

Question # 10:

Can you provide us with a cream cheese frosting which contains a hint of pineapple?

Aaron Belangeri, Honolulu, Hawaii

Answer # 10:

I have used this pineapple cream cheese frosting with great success on carrot cakes.

Ingredients Notes American Metric Yield %

Cream Cheese room temperature 2 lb 4 oz 1020 g 26.37 %

Butter Unsalted 2 lb 4 oz 1020 g 26.37 %

Sugar, powdered Sifted 1 lb 8 oz 680 g 17.58 %

Pineapple canned, crushed and well drained 2 lb 8 oz 1134 g 29.32 %

Vanilla Extract 0.5 oz 14.15 g 0.37 %

Total - 8 lb 8.5 oz 3868.15 g 100 %

Method: Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl and attached a paddle. Mix until well combined. Use as a frosting or filling.

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