Classic croissants with a new twist

Some bakers might say it's a sin to even consider changes to the croissant. After all, it is a pastry enjoyed by Europeans for hundreds of years and by Americans for decades. Although the croissant has evolved since it originated in Turkey, the current form has been prevalent for about 100 years. Why should a buttery, flaky, tender pastry change when it is already delicious and visually appealing? In order to stand out and push the limits of concept, flavor and presentation, bakers must serve unique items that challenge tradition. A twist on the classic croissant is a great way to show creativity and share food philosophy.

A controlled approach is necessary when making changes to an existing product. Bakers need to have an understanding of the final product characteristics, the effect of changing ingredients and a grasp of the complete process. A great adaption of the classic croissant is a multigrain savory morning bun. The base is a multigrain croissant with savory inclusions added during make-up and finishing.

Adjusting formula composition

The formulation of croissant dough is fairly simple, but any changes to it must be made carefully. Laminated dough must undergo lamination and fermentation, both of which are affected by ingredient selection and amounts. Adjusting the standard white wheat flour is the first step for development.

In the provided formula, 55 percent of the flour remains white, refined flour. The remaining 45 percent is whole wheat flour and rye flour. Without adding extra vital wheat gluten or modified starches, bakers can use a small percentage of flour that contains little to no gluten without making major changes to the formula. With larger quantities of rye, the formula may need additional vital wheat gluten to help create enough strength and structure in the dough. When baking with whole grains, and especially grains that have little or no gluten like rye, it is beneficial to include them in a preferment.

Next, adjust the minor ingredients to compensate for using different flour. Because the specialty flours contain a lot of ash and other yeast nutrients, decrease the amount of yeast slightly. Also, additional sugar is added during the make-up for this product, so the amount earmarked for the dough can be slightly decreased. The amount of fat in the dough can be decreased to compensate for the weaker texture that results from using rye.

Adjusting the process

Due to the inclusion of rye flour in the base dough formula, mixing times are slightly reduced compared to standard croissant dough. The dough should be mixed to between a short and improved mix. Over-mixing the dough may result in over-developing the gluten. The gluten is further developed during lamination, and too much gluten development results in a tougher texture and yields smaller volume. After the product is mixed and ferments for 30 minutes, cool it as quickly as possible to limit fermentation and stop gas production. After about an hour, or once the dough is chilled completely and firm to the touch, the fat can be enclosed in the dough and lamination can be completed.

This dough should be baked on the same day it is laminated (retarding shaped pastries or bulk retarding the paton for more than several hours is not advised) because it uses preferments from whole grains. Retarding or fermenting the dough for too long will result in higher levels of acidity and reduced fermentation tolerance. However, after make-up, the pastries can be frozen for up to a week without conditioning the dough.

The evolution of pastry products follows the evolution of customers' demands. Retail bakeries thrive on the morning business of coffee and pastries and many have developed protein-focused breakfast options. The multigrain maple bacon morning bun fills the demand for the sweet and savory morning routine, offers healthful, wholesome quality and is a quick and easy sale.

Brian Wood is the founder of Baking and Pastry Solutions, a company focused on assisting baking and pastry operations with product development, employee training and more. He has worked with masters and trained many students through years of teaching and consulting. To learn more, visit tourrier.com or email tourrier@gmail.com. All photos are by Frank Wing.

Multigrain maple bacon morning buns

MAPLE BACON ROLL

INGREDIENTS	LBS.	OZS.	METRIC	BAKER'S %
Bread flour	1	7	652 g	60
Whole wheat pastry flour		13.4	380 g	35
Rye flour		1.9	54 g	5
Yeast, fresh		1.9	54 g	5
Salt		0.8	22 g	2
Water		9.6	272 g	25
Milk		13.4	380 g	35
Butter		1.52	43 g	4
Brown sugar		1.9	54 g	5
Maple syrup		3.1	87 g	8
Vanilla bean, 1*
Butter ** (for lamination)	1	1.6	500 g	25
Total appr. wt.	5	8	2.5 kg	184

* Use one vanilla bean per 2 kg of dough

** Butter for lamination is a percentage of total dough weight

MAPLE BACON BUTTER

INGREDIENTS	LBS.	OZS.	METRIC	BAKER'S %
Butter		5.6	158 g	100
Maple syrup		1.7	47 g	30
Bacon, cooked crisp, diced		3.3	95 g	60
Total appr. wt.		10.6	300 g	190

Method: In mixing bowl, incorporate all ingredients except the brown sugar, maple syrup and butter for lamination. Use an improved mix, adding the brown sugar and maple syrup after the other ingredients are incorporated. Desired dough temperature is 73°F to 77°F. Ferment dough for 30 minutes at room temperature, then refrigerate for one hour. Laminate dough with butter, using three single folds. Sheet laminated dough to 18 ins. wide and 1/8 in. thick. Mix maple bacon butter ingredients with paddle attatchment until light in texture. Spread maple bacon butter over the sheeted dough, and roll into a cylinder. Cut pieces to about 3 ozs. (80 g). Places pieces in a buttered sticky bun pan. Proof at 78°F to 80°F for about 90 minutes. Bake at 375°F for 15 minutes or until golden brown. Ice with maple fondant and garnish with a small slice of crisp bacon.