Photo by Frank Wing, courtesy of ConAgra Mills

Long before wheat dominated the world of leavened bread baking, early cultures were discovering and domesticating wild grasses and plants. Where once there were numerous types of grains to choose from, today, corn, wheat and rice dominate the agricultural landscape. With the exception of corn and rice, other non-wheat grains were less widely cultivated and therefore are less widely available. However, consumer interest in ancient grains is growing. Bakers are using ancient grains to offer products made with whole grains, gluten-free products and breads with a unique, authentic flavor profile.

For a variety of reasons, these specialty grains are typically processed as whole grain flour. Products made with these grains give the baker a chance to experiment with new flavor profiles that will bring a tremendous diversity to production lines.

Ancestral wheat

Flours milled from spelt, einkorn and emmer, ancestors of modern wheat, contain the proteins necessary to make gluten. In today's marketplace, only spelt is still widely available. Einkorn and emmer are harder to source and significantly more expensive. The fact that these ingredients are directly related to wheat makes them easy to introduce into existing baking formulas. They have some levels of functional gluten and will have some effects on the dough systems depending on the level of inclusion. Inclusion rates can range from 1 to 100 percent of the T.F.W. (total flour weight), however, these strains of wheat do not produce the volume of the finished product due to the ratio of gliadins and glutenins. Fermentation times and tolerances, volume and crumb structure will vary depending on inclusion rates.

Pseudo-cereals

Buckwheat, amaranth, and quinoa are broadleaf plants, but their seeds can be processed as true cereal grains. In general, these gluten-free pseudo-cereals have more amino acids, making them a better nutritional source of complete proteins. Traditional uses include leavened or unleavened flatbreads. The pseudo-cereal family of seeds typically absorbs and holds hydration well, which allows the final products to retain moisture after the bake.

Ancient grasses

Millet, sorghum and teff are not related to wheat, so they contain no gluten. Ancient grasses tend to be poor retainers of hydration and thus benefit the most from long contact with water and/or pre-gelatinization through par cooking. In dough systems, they can create unique dough handling characteristics. It is important to ensure that there is enough water in your dough to swell these tougher starches fully. Doughs with these grains can be very sticky, so use an appropriate amount of flour to release this dough at all stages of fermentation (i.e., bulk, divide/pre-shape, final proof). Boards, baskets or linens must be floured appropriately to ensure easy removal.

For many, the thought of whole grains once conjured images of drab, dry, leaden loaves of bread or gritty mystery muffins. Fortunately, this is changing, as research continues to show that a diet rich in whole grains is beneficial and people demand more healthful yet flavorful choices. Not only are whole grains good for health, but when treated properly, they can provide the same pleasing textures associated with traditional products. They also can produce new flavors, both subtle and robust.

One popular approach to incorporating whole grains is to “sneak” them into favorite formulas. This provides the fiber and nutritional benefits while still offering a familiar product. Another approach is to emphasize the positive qualities of a particular grain. This approach appeals to those who enjoy the unique flavors and textures available outside of the world of refined wheat flour. The pie dough in this teff apple pie incorporates a moderate amount of teff flour, which provides a deliciously nutty backdrop for the sweet and tart apples.