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Photos by Zach Hertz

The invention of the modern mechanical mixer quickly replaced the tradition of hand mixing dough. Mechanical mixers are great for speed and building elasticity into the dough, which gives the bread a nice appearance and good volume. However, mechanical mixers also oxidize the dough. The oxidation process chemically strengthens the gluten bonds in bread dough, which helps develop good volume in a loaf, but it also damages the carotenoid pigments naturally found in flour.

A benefit of using a mixer is that the repeated turning of the hook through the dough develops dough strength. The repetitive motion stretches and folds the dough evenly and consistently, which organizes the gluten matrix in the dough.

Although using a mixer saves time and allows processing of larger batches of dough, hand mixing is seeing a resurgence in some circles. Mixing dough by hand creates bread with outstanding crumb color, texture and a magnificent, open cell structure when fermented and handled properly. When oxidation is limited during the mixing process, the crumb is creamy yellow in color and the flavor is subtly complex with floral elements far superior to what can be developed in dough that has been even partially oxidized.

Creating full flavor

Even in straight baguette dough with no preferment, the flavor is full, buttery and sweet up front, then tapers off into a pleasant aftertaste with lingering acidity. The openness of the cell structure can be attributed to an uneven and irregular gluten matrix left to develop over time in a random and natural pattern. This underdeveloped and unorganized gluten web leads to a cell structure that is both open and irregular, enhancing the texture of the bread.

A common misconception about mixing bread by hand is that aesthetics must be sacrificed for flavor. Using proper dough handling and fermentation techniques produces bread that parallels any other artisan bread in appearance with a somewhat smaller volume. The elasticity is primarily developed through folding the dough a minimum of three times in 45-minute intervals. Fermentation also helps develop elasticity in the dough.

During fermentation, yeast cells produce small amounts of acidity. Over two to three hours, this acidity builds up and chemically enhances the strength of the dough by reinforcing the gluten bonds. In sourdough, acidity primarily comes from the bacteria present in the starter. Acidity developed during fermentation not only increases the elasticity in the dough but also greatly enhances the flavor and naturally adds to the shelf life.

Another common misconception regarding hand mixing is that dough cannot be mixed in any great quantity, and mixing bread by hand in a large production setting may be impractical. However, 35 kg or less of dough per day is entirely possible for hand mixing as it takes about five minutes to incorporate the ingredients in a 12-kg batch of dough.

When mixing by hand, formulation is important. For straight baguette dough, no more than 0.3 percent yeast should be used to allow enough time for acidity to build up and for folding in 45-minute intervals. Also, the hydration of the dough should be at least 68 percent for artisan breads. A sourdough formula with somewhere between 35 percent to 60 percent starter in the final dough works well.

Larger loaves, in excess of 2 kg, are best when using the hand-mix method because as the quantity of dough increases, the chemical activity in the dough increases due to the “mass effect.” Mass effect is the property of dough that results in more chemical activity during fermentation as the size of the dough increases.

Hand mixing may be beneficial for small bakery cafés that use artisan bread for sandwiches, or possibly a restaurant that serves bread made in-house. As long as production needs are relatively modest, you can produce a quality bread, in house, without having to invest in a mixer. Most importantly, handmixed artisan bread is unparalleled in flavor and complexity.

The San Francisco Baking Institute (SFBI) The San Francisco Baking Institute (SFBI) is a world-renowned leader in artisan bread and pastry education and consulting. More information on SFBI can be found at www.sfbi.com.

Frank Sally is a baking and pastry instructor at SFBI. His primary role is to develop and teach a variety of bread, viennoiserie and pastry classes. Sally loves teaching people how to understand and control the baking process.