The word cereal in Latin-based languages was taken from Ceres, the Roman goddess of grain and agriculture. The world's diet has centered around cereal-based foods since man first crushed grain between his teeth. As people began to understand the nutritive value of cereals and how to cultivate them, lives and economies evolved accordingly. Farmers were among the first to prosper, and as technology improved, millers and bakers developed relationships benefiting each other and civilization as well. This pain au cèrèales formula is a tribute to the nobility of grains and their contributions to civilization.

In more recent times, baked products relying on refined flours and sweeteners were among the first casualties of carbophobia. Despite increasing awareness of nutrition, misconceptions of breads' healthfulness still persist, and sales of grain-based foods are still recovering. The ability to understand and react to trends, and to capitalize on them rather than caving in to them, can make the difference between survival and success. So many lines have been drawn in the sand by dieticians, nutritionists and marketers that navigating the choppy and often murky waters can be difficult.

Multigrain bread made whole grains, natural leavening and sweetened with honey has a universal appeal capable of deprogramming those who have succumbed to media hype. It's a fact: most people love bread, especially good bread. The media and the marketplace have collided, making the time perfect for producing and selling multigrain bread. Multi and grain are two words that, when combined, are capable of dispelling the concerns often associated with bread consumption.

The formula provided builds and layers flavors and textures by using several techniques and ingredients. Natural starters and levains, made from wheat and rye flours, provide complex and contrasting flavors as well as leavening. In addition to the characteristic acetic, or sour, flavor associated with stiff wheat levains, the rye starter adds a spicy note to the flavor profile. The bitterness associated with whole wheat flour is balanced by honey; one of the first foods harvested, or foraged, after grains. A whole grain soaker gives the final product an interesting mouthfeel and distinctive crunch. Soaking the grains in cold water for twelve hours softens them for easier chewing and digestion. The addition of a low percentage of commercial yeast facilitates production without penalizing the flavor and aroma of the resulting product.

Bakeries maintaining a white sourdough culture can spin a rye starter off of it by feeding it with rye meal. It is more effective to spin a white culture off of an existing rye culture; however, either type of culture could be used to inoculate the other. Begin with your existing starter and feed with the other grain in the proportions provided. Allow a few days for the culture to stabilize. It is quite easy to maintain two cultures and increase the flavor palette your bakery offers.

Multigrain bread made with traditional ingredients using traditional methods lives up to the public's perception of healthful food. It is great for toasting, grilling, sandwiches, or eating alone. Pain au cèrèales provides an interesting and appealing visual contrast to other breads on display.

Mitch Stamm is an associate instructor at Johnson & Wales University, Providence, R.I., where he teaches Principles and Techniques of Bread Making. He is a Certified Executive Pastry Chef with 40 years experience in foodservice. For more information on Johnson & Wales University, visit www.jwu.edu.

Pain au cèrèales — multigrain

LEVAIN

INGREDIENTS LBS. OZS. METRIC
Bread flour 1 3 536 g
Starter 9.5 268 g
Water 9.5 268 g
Total appr. wt. 2 6 1.072 kg

Method: Combine all ingredients in bowl. Mix by hand until smooth, and place in covered container. Ferment at 70°F for 12 hours.

RYE STARTER

INGREDIENTS LBS. OZS. METRIC
Rye meal 1 0.5 468 g
Rye starter 3.8 108 g
Water 1 1 486 g
Total appr. wt. 2 5.3 1.062 kg

Method: Combine all ingredients in bowl, and mix by hand until smooth. Place in covered container, and ferment at 70°F for 12 hours.

SOAKER

INGREDIENTS LBS. OZS. METRIC
Grain mixture 4 1.82 kg
Water 4 2 1.874 kg
Total appr. wt. 8 2 3.694 kg

Method: Combine the water and grain mixture. Cover and soak for 12 hours.

FINAL DOUGH

INGREDIENTS LBS. OZS. METRIC
Bread flour 8 5.5 3.87 kg
Whole wheat 3 10.4 1.658 kg
Salt 5.25 150 g
Honey 1 5.15 600 g
Levain 2 6 1.072 kg
Rye starter 2 5.3 1.062 kg
Instant active yeast 0.15 4.3 g
Soaker 8 2 3.694 kg
Water 7 1 3.21 kg
Total appr. wt. 33 8.75 15.32 kg

Method: Combine all ingredients except the soaker in the bowl of a spiral mixer. Mix using the improved mixing method. Time will vary depending on the type of mixer. A typical spiral mixer will require three to four minutes on low speed and two to three minutes on second speed. A planetary mixer will require four minutes on first speed and four minutes on second speed. Add the soaker and mix until incorporated. Bulk ferment for 90 minutes with a stretch and fold after 45 minutes. Divide into 1-lb. 10-oz. (750-g) pieces. Preshape and relax for 15 minutes. Then, shape into batards. Final proof for 90 minutes if using commercial yeast; two hours if not using commercial yeast. Lightly flour the loaves and score. Bake in a 460°F deck oven with steam. Open the vent at the onset of color. Open the oven door the final five minutes of baking.

ARTISAN BREAD IS BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE NATIONAL HONEY BOARD

For information on how to use honey in a variety of bakery formulas, visit the National Honey Board's website at www.honey.com.

  1. After mixing, bulk ferment the dough for 90 minutes. Divide it into 26-oz. pieces.

  2. Preshape and relax the dough for 15 minutes; then, shape into batards.

  3. After shaping, final proof for 90 minutes if using commerical yeast or two hours if not using commercial yeast. Lightly flour the loaves.

  4. After flouring, score with a straight cut down the center of the loaf.

  5. Bake in a 460°F deck oven with steam; open the vent at the onset of color and open the door for the final five minutes of baking.

  6. Multigrain bread provides an interesting and colorful contrast to other breads and is great for sandwiches.