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The word cereal in Latin-based languages was taken from Ceres, the Roman goddess of grain and agriculture. The world's diet has centered around cereal-based foods since man first crushed grain between his teeth. As people began to understand the nutritive value of cereals and how to cultivate them, lives and economies evolved accordingly. Farmers were among the first to prosper, and as technology improved, millers and bakers developed relationships benefiting each other and civilization as well. This pain au cèrèales formula is a tribute to the nobility of grains and their contributions to civilization.

In more recent times, baked products relying on refined flours and sweeteners were among the first casualties of carbophobia. Despite increasing awareness of nutrition, misconceptions of breads' healthfulness still persist, and sales of grain-based foods are still recovering. The ability to understand and react to trends, and to capitalize on them rather than caving in to them, can make the difference between survival and success. So many lines have been drawn in the sand by dieticians, nutritionists and marketers that navigating the choppy and often murky waters can be difficult.

Multigrain bread made whole grains, natural leavening and sweetened with honey has a universal appeal capable of deprogramming those who have succumbed to media hype. It's a fact: most people love bread, especially good bread. The media and the marketplace have collided, making the time perfect for producing and selling multigrain bread. Multi and grain are two words that, when combined, are capable of dispelling the concerns often associated with bread consumption.

The formula provided builds and layers flavors and textures by using several techniques and ingredients. Natural starters and levains, made from wheat and rye flours, provide complex and contrasting flavors as well as leavening. In addition to the characteristic acetic, or sour, flavor associated with stiff wheat levains, the rye starter adds a spicy note to the flavor profile. The bitterness associated with whole wheat flour is balanced by honey; one of the first foods harvested, or foraged, after grains. A whole grain soaker gives the final product an interesting mouthfeel and distinctive crunch. Soaking the grains in cold water for twelve hours softens them for easier chewing and digestion. The addition of a low percentage of commercial yeast facilitates production without penalizing the flavor and aroma of the resulting product.

Bakeries maintaining a white sourdough culture can spin a rye starter off of it by feeding it with rye meal. It is more effective to spin a white culture off of an existing rye culture; however, either type of culture could be used to inoculate the other. Begin with your existing starter and feed with the other grain in the proportions provided. Allow a few days for the culture to stabilize. It is quite easy to maintain two cultures and increase the flavor palette your bakery offers.

Multigrain bread made with traditional ingredients using traditional methods lives up to the public's perception of healthful food. It is great for toasting, grilling, sandwiches, or eating alone. Pain au cèrèales provides an interesting and appealing visual contrast to other breads on display.

Mitch Stamm is an associate instructor at Johnson & Wales University, Providence, R.I., where he teaches Principles and Techniques of Bread Making. He is a Certified Executive Pastry Chef with 40 years experience in foodservice. For more information on Johnson & Wales University, visit www.jwu.edu.

Pain au cèrèales — multigrain

LEVAIN

Method: Combine all ingredients in bowl. Mix by hand until smooth, and place in covered container. Ferment at 70°F for 12 hours.