The Workbench

January edition of a monthly collection of helpful baking tips, hints and minutia.


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Q: Our bakery is close to the Minnesota State Fair Grounds and corn dogs are sold during the event. Do you have a small formula we can try out to evaluate if this is something we could sell year-round?
L.R., St. Paul, Minn.

A: While corn dogs may not be a fit for every bakery, you know your market, and here is a small formula that you can try out:

Corn dogs
Pastry flour 1 ¼ c
Salt 1 tsp
Cornmeal ¾ c
Granulated sugar 4 Tbsp
Whole eggs 2 each
Whole milk ¾ c

Method: Heat oil in a deep fryer to 375°F (185°C). In a large bowl, stir together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder and salt. Make a well in the center, and pour in the eggs and milk. Mix until smooth and well blended. Pat the hot dogs dry with paper towels, so the batter will stick. Insert wooden sticks into the ends. Dip the hot dogs in the batter one at a time, shaking off the excess. Deep fry two pieces at a time in the hot oil until they are golden brown, about six minutes.

Q: When is a sugar solution saturated or even supersaturated?
Mai, via e-mail

A: When you add sugar to water, the sugar crystals dissolve and the sugar becomes a solution. When as much sugar has been dissolved as possible, the solution is saturated. The saturation point is different at different temperatures. The higher the temperature, the more sugar that can be held in solution. When you cook up a batch of candy, you cook sugar, water and various other ingredients to extremely high temperatures. At these high temperatures, the sugar remains in a solution, even though much of the water has boiled away. But when the candy is done cooking and begins to cool, more sugar is in the solution than is normally possible. The solution is supersaturated with sugar. Super-saturation is an unstable state. The sugar molecules will begin to crystallize back into a solid at the least provocation. Stirring or jostling of any kind can cause the sugar to begin crystallizing.

Q: What is the difference between gelato and traditional, American-style ice cream?
D.J., Washington, D.C.

A: Four principal differences exist-fat content, key ingredients, texture and flavor. Gelato contains less butterfat (4 percent to 8 percent) than American-style ice cream (10 percent to 18 percent). Gelato's key ingredients are whole milk, sugar (usually confectioners' sugar), flavorings (especially fresh fruit) and sometimes skimmed milk powder, which adds viscosity and helps stop the build up of ice crystals. Gelato is not as frozen in texture when served-it's more of a semi-frozen ice cream and is generally best eaten fresh the day it's made. The flavor of gelato is generally agreed to be purer on the palate, especially gelato made with water (sorbetto). Gelato is normally stored in a forced air freezer that prevents the gelato from freezing completely. Try this simple banana gelato.

Banana gelato
Ingredients Lbs. Ozs. Metric
Milk, whole 2 3 1 L
Water 2 3 1 L
Confectioners' sugar
14 400 g
Bananas, ripe 2 3 1 kg
Lemon, fresh juice
2 56 ml
Total appr. wt. 7 9 3.456 kg

Method: Place the sugar and water in a saucepan, and stir while slowly bringing the mixture to a boil. This ensures the sugar dissolves. Remove the pan from the heat and cool. In a separate bowl, mash the bananas, and stir in the juice from the lemon. Add the milk and the cooled sugar/water syrup. Transfer into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Q: What is your favorite topping for ice cream?
J.R., Irvine, Calif.

A: The topping options are almost limitless for ice cream. I have always enjoyed this toffee sauce.

Toffee sauce
Ingredients Lbs. Ozs Metric
Brown sugar 1 2 500 g
Butter, unsalted 1 2 500 g
Syrup, golden
1 30 g
Whole milk
4.5 125 ml
Total appr. wt. 2 9.5 1.155 kg

Method: Slowly heat the sugar, butter and syrup in a saucepan, and stir until fully melted/dissolved. Boil for four minutes, and then cool slightly before stirring in the milk. You also may use a heavy cream if you prefer a richer sauce. While the sauce is still warm, pour it over ice cream.

Klaus Tenbergen is certified as a Master Baker in Germany, South Africa and the United States. He is currently an assistant professor at California State University in Fresno, teaching classes in Culinology®-the blending of culinary arts and the science of food. For more information, call 559/278-2164 or contact Klaus Tenbergen at ktenbergen@csufresno.edu.

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