Workbench
Klaus Tenbergen
Q: Can you share a formula for sangak?
Peter, via e-mail
A: Sangak is a plain, rectangular or triangular Iranian whole wheat sourdough flatbread considered to be Iran's national bread. The bread shares its name with the Iranian word for pebble because it was traditionally baked on a bed of small, hot river stones inside an oven. Iranian bakeries traditionally offer two varieties of this bread — one without toppings and another topped with poppy seeds or sesame seeds.
| Ingredients | Lbs. | Ozs. | Metric |
|---|---|---|---|
| Whole wheat flour | 11 | 5 kg | |
| Sourdough* | 2 | 3.25 | 1 kg |
| Sea salt | 1.75 | 50 g | |
| Water | 9 | 6 | 4.25 L |
| Total appr. wt. | 22 | 11 | 10.3 kg |
Method: Mix all ingredients to a slack dough, then bulk ferment for two hours. Divide into 1-lb. (450-g) pieces; roll by hand on a special convex paddle, dock, and sprinkle with seeds. Place the dough in the center of the oven and bake at 660°F (350°C) for about three minutes.
* Use sourdough from existing artisan bread production.
Q: What does détrempe mean in terms of making laminated doughs?
Karina, via e-mail
A: Détrempe is a technical confectionery term describing a mixture of flour and water used in preparing pastries. The French use the expression “faire la détrempe du feuilletage.” Before adding any other ingredients, such as butter, it is best to let the détrempe sit in a cool place for one hour. It is rarely used on its own, except as a luting paste.
Q: We would like to use melted chocolate to write on cakes, but find it is too runny and difficult to control. What can we do?
Genaro, via e-mail
A: Restrict the flow of melted chocolate with a drop of water or high percentage of alcohol. Be careful not to use too much added liquid, as it will ruin the chocolate.
Q: Are green or black olives better to use in rosemary olive bread?
Angelica, via e-mail
A: Almost any kind of brined or oil-cured olives work in bread baking. I normally use equal parts of local black and green olives, which adds an interesting color combination and flavor to artisan bread.
Q: How do we make a simple dessert sauce?
A.M., Phoenix
A: You can start by straining raspberries, strawberries, blueberries, black currants or any other soft berries. Adjust the flavor and consistency with sugar syrup and lemon juice. For hard or under-ripe berries, puree them first in a food processor.
Q: How do we get our muffins to peak nicely?
Karen, via e-mail
A: Increase the oven temperature by 25°F (15°C) and avoid overcrowding the oven.
Q: Can you provide a formula for apple sauce?
M.C., Virginia City, Nev.
A: Making your own apple sauce is cost-effective and tastes much better than the alternatives.
| Ingredients | Lbs. | Ozs. | Metric |
|---|---|---|---|
| Apples, fresh | 10 | 4.5 kg | |
| Sugar, granulated | 1 | 680 g | |
| Water | 1 pt. | 450 mL | |
| Vanilla paste | 0.5 | 15 mL | |
| Cinnamon sticks, 2 | 2 | ||
| Lemons, 2 (juice and zest) | 6 | ||
| Total appr. wt. | 12 | 8.5 | 5.65 kg |
Method: Combine all ingredients in a large stockpot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cook while stirring frequently until the apples disintegrate. Refrigerate until needed. To achieve a crunchier apple sauce, add 5 lbs. of fresh apple that has been peeled, cored and chopped.
Q: We opened a bakery at an elevation of 2,500 ft. Is there a standard formula for how much we have to adjust the cooking temperature when making syrup for our Italian meringue?
S.K., Nevada City, Calif.
A: Most, if not all, formulas are written for baking at sea level. The same applies to all temperature ranges. Subtract one degree for every 500-ft. increase in altitude. At 2,500 ft., you will reach soft ball state in your syrup at 229°F to 235°F instead of 234°F to 240°F at sea level.
Q: How much fat should we use when laminating our Danish dough?
K.G., Racine, Wis.
A: I have been successful making a good quality laminated Danish dough with 15 to 25 percent butter or baker's margarine, based on the dough weight.
Q: How do we achieve the deep, rich yellow color when making layer cakes from scratch?
Glenda, via e-mail
A: As the diets of egg-laying chickens no longer produce the deep yellow color in egg yolks, I add either beta-carotene or “egg shade” food coloring to the batters to create the desired crumb color in the layer cakes.
Q: How can I tell if eggs are no longer safe to use?
S.C., Florida City, Fla.
A: Eggs stay usable for a surprisingly long time, as long as they are refrigerated. The best way to tell if an egg has gone bad without cracking it open is to put it in at least 4 ins. of water. If it stays on the bottom, it's still good. If it floats, don't use it. All eggs have a membrane between the shell and the albumin — the clear, viscous liquid inside. There is no air between the membrane and the shell in a freshly laid egg, but as the egg ages, an air pocket forms due to osmosis through the permeable shell. Once the egg has enough of an air pocket to float, it has definitely passed its prime.
Q: I want to buy a new tabletop mixer. A 5- or 6-qt. bowl would be sufficient. What should I look for?
J.B., New York City
A: Make sure that the mixer is NSF-certified to be in compliance with local and state health codes. Additionally, I would buy a mixer with a 575-watt motor instead of 325 watts. Also, the attachment hub should give you the option to use the mixer for grating, stuffing or juicing.
Q: Is there a difference between pig and elephant ears?
M.O., Salt Lake City
A: I love making both of these items with scrap pieces of puff pastry dough. The only difference is the size. Smaller pieces are often called pig ears, while the larger ones are commonly known as elephant ears.
Dr. Klaus Tenbergen is certified as a Master Baker in Germany, South Africa and the United States. He is currently an assistant professor at California State University in Fresno, directing the Culinology® program, which blends culinary arts and the science of food. For more information about Culinology®, or to submit a question, contact Dr. Tenbergen at ktenbergen@csufresno.edu.
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