The Workbench
Modern Baking's tips and advice from Klaus Tenbergen.
Klaus Tenbergen
Q: We offer several baked savory items that use a lot of onions. How can we cut onions without weeping?
Bernard, via e-mail
A: When an onion is pierced, a chemical reaction takes place releasing organosulfur compounds. These compounds may irritate the eye and causes tearing. To reduce any tearing, I recommend chilling onions for 30 minutes prior to cutting. Additionally, use a sharp knife. Begin cutting at the top, and leave the root end uncut as long as possible as it contains the highest concentration of sulfur compounds. These tips should help eliminate most of the tears.
Q: We recently returned from a trip to Tuscany. To our surprise the ciabatta bread was very different from what we are used to in the United States. And, there was a ciabatta latte variety. Why was the ciabatta so different?
Idia, via e-mail
A: Throughout Italy, each region has its own version of ciabatta bread and all are moderately different. The term ciabatta, Italian for slipper and a reference to loaf shape, is really more of a generic term for rustic Italian bread than it is an exact formula. For example, in Tuscany, ciabatta doesn't have the large holes and is much denser than what you might see in the United States. In Rome, ciabatta often is seasoned with olive oil, salt and marjoram. Some formulas even use milk as part or all of the liquid, which makes for more tender bread without the holes or crackly crust we associate with ciabatta. When ciabatta is made with milk, it is called ciabatta latte. Ciabatta made with whole wheat flour is known as ciabatta integrale.
Q: We sell a lot of coffee in the morning and want to know the ideal brewing temperature.
D.B., Dallas
A: As coffee is 98 percent water, the quality of the water is very critical. Always start with cold, freshly drawn, filtered or spring water. Do not use chlorinated water straight from the tap as it will result in brewed coffee with many “off” flavors. Bring the water to a boil, and let it cool until it reaches the ideal brewing temperature of 200°F (93.5°C).
Q: We want to sell pizza crust mix where the customer only adds yeast and water. How much yeast should we recommend the customer add?
Z.C., Tampa Bay, Fla.
A: I recommend using 1.5 percent fresh/compressed yeast, 0.5 percent active dry yeast or 0.35 percent instant dry yeast. These percentages are based on the total flour weight in your formula. Also be sure to recommend dough temperature and fermentation times.
Q: I would like to replace granulated sugar with maple syrup in several of our formulas. Can I replace it one for one?
Rodrigo, via e-mail
A: Using maple syrup in place of granulated sugar in formulas is one of the growing trends in the baking industry. One cup of maple syrup, at a fairly common density of 67° Brix, provides 7.5 ozs. (214 g) of sugar and 3.7 ozs. (105 ml) of water. One cup of cane sugar averages about 7.4 ozs. (210 g) of sugar. This is roughly the same amount of sugar. The space around the grains of granulated sugar about equals the space taken up by the water in the cup of maple syrup. So, the amount of sugar in maple syrup and granulated sugar of the same volume is essentially the same. However, using a cup of maple syrup in place of granulated sugar adds 3.7 ozs. (105 ml) of water to the formula. To balance the liquid in the formula, you need to reduce other liquids, typically water or milk, by 3.7 ozs. (105 ml) per cup of maple syrup.
Q: We need to buy a new six-burner gas range that we use to cook fruits, sauces, custards and other bakery fillings. One of the models has a unique star-shaped burner. Is this just for show?
P.H., Charlotte, N.C.
A: The burner's unique shape isn't just for show. The star shape creates a perimeter 56 percent larger than a round burner of the same size, which allows the inclusion of more flame ports. The result is a burner that delivers superior flame spread and a reduced cold spot for faster and more even heating.
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