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Q: Could you share a scratch formula for cream puffs and éclairs?

A.L., New York City

A: The following formula and procedure will give you a base on which you can expand.

Cream puffs/éclairs
Ingredients Lbs. Ozs. Metric Bakers %
Butter 1   450 g 66.2
Water 1 pint   450 ml 66.2
Whole milk 1 pint   450 ml 66.2
Flour 1 8 680 g 100.0
Whole eggs 1 12 790 ml 116.2

Total appr. wt. 6 4 2.820 kg 414.8 %

Q: We bake muffins in a convection oven, but they have a tendency to lean to one side while baking. What can we do to resolve this problem?

S.G., Chicago

A: Muffins lean to one side because of the air currents in a convection oven. If you experience this problem, set the oven temperature 50°F (30°C) higher, load the product quickly and turn off the oven for five minutes. Turn the oven back on at the normal baking temperature, and bake until done; this allows the muffins to develop some structure before the hot air circulates.

Q: We were thinking of purchasing a baguette moulder to ease the strain of our production, but we don’t want to sacrifice the quality of our bread. What is your opinion on baguette moulders?

B.C., Roanoke, Va.

A: A baguette molder will reduce the time needed to make up baguettes tremendously, if used properly. But you must ensure the machine smoothly and progressively moulds the dough up to a maximum length of 27.5 ins. (70 cm) and the two sheeting cylinders are covered with non-toxic plastic material.

Q: Can we use whipped butter when baking?

Laura, via e-mail

Klaus Tenbergen

Klaus Tenbergen

A: “Whipped butter” is regular butter that has air beaten into it in order to increase its volume and to make it easier to spread. It should not be used in baked products because the large volume of air contained in the product will result in an incorrect proportion of butter to other ingredients.

Q: What is coconut water, and can it be used in baking and pastry applications?

J.C., Albuquerque, N.M.

A: Coconut water is the clear liquid inside young coconuts. As the fruit matures, the coconut water gradually is replaced by coconut meat and air. A very young coconut has very little meat, and the meat is very tender, almost a gel. Coconut water has long been a popular drink in the tropics, due to its unique flavor and high potassium and mineral content. In fact, 8 ozs. of coconut water contains more electrolytes than most sports drinks and more potassium than a banana. Use it when making drinks, parfaits and mousses.

Q: We started making pizzas and other savory items to increase our product line. Can you give us some storage tips for the dough?

A.C., Harwich Port, Mass.

A: I recommend a final dough temperature of 80.5°F (27°C). Make up should follow immediately after the mixing, without any bench rest. Lightly coat the dough balls with oil, and place in the cooler without delay. Allow for maximum airflow around the dough balls. Once they are chilled completely, cover them to prevent from drying out. If you freeze the dough, allow at least 20 hours for the dough to thaw completely.

Q: What flour do you recommend for baguettes?

V.V., Milwaukee

A: I avoid bleached or bromated flours. I prefer winter wheat, but spring wheat flour works well as long it has a protein level of about 11.2 percent. Absorption rates of these different flours may vary with different suppliers, seasons, length of storage and storage conditions. I work with absorption levels between 75 and 78 percent.

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