The Workbench
Q: What varieties of apples are most suited to baking?
C.S., Minneapolis
A: Good baking apples hold their shape when baked. Some examples include Rome Beauty, Newton, Northern Spy, Winesap, Red and Gold Delicious, Granny Smith and Jonathon.
Q: I was looking at the ingredient label of baking powder. What is the function of the cornstarch?
J.S., Athens, Ga.
A: The functions of cornstarch in baking powder are:
To act as an insert filler. It acts as a buffer between the active ingredients and prevents their going into reaction when exposed to moisture.
To standardize the strength of the baking powder, so that different brands produce the same amount of CO2 per volume.
To absorb moisture and help keep the powder dry.
Q: Do you know what causes the air holes in our baked custards?
N.W., Chapel Hill, N.C.
A: If baked custard is allowed to boil, air holes develop as steam is trapped in the custard. Lower the baking temperature by at least 25°F and always start with cold water when baking custards.
Q: We make our own ice cream and sometimes have problems with the way it feels on the tongue. Do you know what the cause of “sandiness” in ice cream is?
P. F., Madison, Wis.
A: “Sandiness” is due to the lactose (milk sugar) in the nonfat milk solids. Lactose is the least soluble of all the sugars, and it easily precipitates into large crystals that can be felt on the tongue.
Q: Do you know what Indian sugar is and how it is made?
C.H., Bartleville, Okla.
A: Indian sugar-sometimes called granulated maple sugar or stirred sugar-is made by heating maple syrup until the temperature is 45°F to 50 °F (7°C to 10 °C) above the boiling point of water. The temperature may vary around the country due to the differences in atmospheric pressure. Then, cool the syrup to about 200°F (93°C), and stir until it granulates into dry crumbs. Sift the sugar through a coarse screen to make a uniformly sized product.
Q: Do you know why in angel food cakes part of the sugar is usually sifted with the flour?
M.X., Scottsdale, Ariz.
A: Some of the sugar is sifted with the cake flour to reduce the tendency of the cake flour to roll into little balls of dry flour as it is folded into the egg foam. Thus, the flour can be distributed more easily throughout the foam and minimize the loss of air from the foam.
Q: We want to make almond paste from scratch for our Danish and cakes. Can you provide a formula?
M.M., Oklahoma City
A: This formula makes a great almond paste.
| Ingredient | Lbs. | Ozs. | Metric |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blanched almonds | 2 | 3.25 | 1 kg |
| Confectioners' sugar | 2 | 3.25 | 1 kg |
| Egg white, pasteurized as needed | |||
| Almond extract | 0.75 | 20 ml | |
| Total appr. wt. | 4 | 7.25 | 2.02 kg |
Method: Using an almond mill, grate the almonds finely, and mix with the sifted confectioners' sugar in a bowl. Mix in the egg whites, a little at a time, until you get a soft and kneadable mixture. Add the almond extract, and continue kneading with your hands. The resulting paste should be soft, but not sticky. If not used immediately, wrap the almond paste tightly in plastic and refrigerate. Almond paste may be colored and flavored with food colorings, cocoa powder and various liqueurs, spirits, essences and extracts, such as cognac, rum, peppermint oil, rose water, orange flower water, etc. Note that using larger quantities of liquid flavoring will make the paste softer and stickier, so add more confectioners' sugar in the mixture. Do not overwork the paste when shaping or rolling it out, as this will cause the oil in the mixture to separate, making the paste oily and unworkable.
Q: Do you have a formula for a simple pound cake icing?
N.G., Imperial, Mo.
A: This icing uses pasteurized egg whites.
| Ingredients | Lbs. | Ozs. | Metric |
|---|---|---|---|
| Confectioners' sugar | 8 | 3.63 kg | |
| Egg whites | 4 | 115 g | |
| Cream of tartar | 1 tsp | 2 g | |
| Water | 1 | 455 g | |
| Glycerin | 1 | 30 g | |
| Butter | 4 | 115 g | |
| Total appr. wt. | 9 | 9 | 4.347 kg |
Method: Combine 1 lb. of sifted confectioners' sugar, egg whites, cream of tartar and 8 ozs. of water. Beat together until blended. Add glycerin and softened butter; blend. Add the remaining sifted confectioners' sugar gradually, beating until smooth and light. Add some or all of the remaining water until the icing has the desired consistency for the application. Use as needed.
Q: Our bakery has very large ice cream sales. I am looking for an unusual way to serve fresh pineapple with our homemade vanilla ice cream.
C. A., Holualoa, Hawaii
A: How about peppered pineapples? The peppercorns will add a slightly fruity flavor to the dish and balance surprisingly well with the fresh pineapple.
Peppered pineapples
8 slices of fresh pineapple
½ - 1 Tbsp dry green peppercorns
½ - 2 Tbsp (brown) sugar
350 ml orange juice
½ - 1 Tbsp honey
100 ml rum
Method: Coarsely crush the peppercorns with a back of a spoon. Rub the pineapple slices with the pepper and sprinkle with sugar. Place the slices in a very hot skillet with the sugared side down. Cook until the sugar forms a caramel coating on the pineapple slices. Flip the slices over and add the juice, honey and rum in the skillet. Cook until the pineapple slices are heated through. Place the slices on serving plates and continue cooking the liquid in the pan briskly, until it is caramelized. Drizzle the sauce over the pineapple slices and serve with vanilla ice cream.
Q: How do you make Ceylon macaroons, and do they include ground rice?
L.B., Batavia, Ill.
A: Ceylon macaroons are not only made with ground rice, but also with coconut flour that contains loads of dietary fiber.
| Ingredients | Lbs. | Ozs. | Metric |
|---|---|---|---|
| Confectioners' sugar | 4 | 0 | 1.815 kg |
| Coconut flour | 4 | 0 | 1.815 kg |
| Ground rice | 1 | 0 | 455 g |
| Whole eggs | 2 | 0 | 910 ml |
| Total appr. wt. | 11 | 0 | 4.995 kg |
Method: Combine the confectioners' sugar and whole eggs (pasteurized) in a large bowl and warm to 140°F (60°C). Stir in the ground rice and coconut flour, and mix until well combined. Pipe with large star tip on silicon mats and air dry well before baking them in a 350°F (177°C) oven until golden brown. Sandwich the cookies with buttercream when cool.
Klaus Tenbergen is certified as a Master Baker in Germany, South Africa and the United States. He is currently an assistant professor at California State University in Fresno, teaching classes in Culinology®-the blending of culinary arts and the science of food. For more information, call 559/278-2164 or contact Klaus Tenbergen at ktenbergen@csufresno.edu.
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