Having been a team member, judge and coach in the World Cup of Pastry, this former world champion shares her unique perspective of having seen international competition from all angles.
Having been a team member, judge and coach in the World Cup of Pastry, this former world champion shares her unique perspective of having seen international competition from all angles.
How did you choose baking and pasty arts as a career?
For as long as I can remember, I enjoyed cooking and baking. While I studied at Skidmore College in upstate New York, I heard about a nearby culinary school, the Culinary Institute of America (CIA). I thought it would be interesting to attend. After I graduated with a B.A. in studio arts, I planned to get my masters degree in jewelry design. While I was working on my portfolio, I decided I really wanted to cook instead, so I went to work for a catering company to get some practical experience. That convinced me that I belonged in the kitchen, so not long after, I enrolled in the CIA.
What training/education have you received?
While I was at the CIA, the school began its baking and pastry program. I enjoyed cooking, but as soon as the baking program started, I knew I wanted to be a pastry chef, so I transferred into the new program. I was the first student to graduate with a baking and pastry degree. One of my most valuable experiences was my school externship with Didier Schorner, owner of Café Didier in Washington, D.C. Didier was instrumental in my training. He ran a tight ship, and I learned a lot of fundamentals there. Didier is now a chef instructor at the CIA. I feel that each chef I worked under throughout the years helped provide the foundation that I built my career on. I supplemented that with stages and continuing education courses. Now, as an independent pastry chef, I work with chefs all over the world and find myself learning more than ever.
How would you describe your style or approach to baking?
My style is very much a reflection of my classical training. I am quite conservative, but I add modern touches (i.e. through technique), so the work is interesting. Because I want to reach a broad audience, I try to keep the recipes simple, so they can be practical for production. As far as the decorative work I do, my style applies to many of the design principles I learned as an art student. It tends to be interpretive with an emphasis on the organics.
What sets your style apart?
I'm not sure that I have a unique style-perhaps because I do not focus on a particular area. However, when I am working on a specific subject, I frequently find myself following the same path. For example, if I am creating a plated dessert with fruits, I gravitate toward similar concepts of flavors, textures, temperatures and presentation. I like to keep the components close together so they can be eaten at the same time. I find myself conscientiously trying to differ the style, but I end up sticking to the concepts that work well for me.
What drove you to compete?
I started to compete when I worked under Sebastien Canonne at the Ritz-Carlton Chicago, a Four Seasons Hotel. It was an interest for him, and he liked his staff to be exposed to it. The hotel encouraged it as well. I enjoyed the challenge because the work was different than what I did on a daily basis. Competition is not for everyone; it takes time and commitment. In our current economic climate, I think it is more difficult for chefs to get the support needed to enter competitions. Training for competition taught me a lot about organization, discipline and teamwork. I became a better chef because of that. I am still involved with competitions because I enjoy working with others and helping them to achieve their goals.
How did you approach your role as captain in 2001?
I was team captain for the Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie 2001, but I cannot take credit for being the leader of the group. There is an enormous amount of planning and preparation that goes into bringing a team to an international event. Ewald Notter, Michel Willaume and I worked with the Coupe du Monde organization that included pastry chefs Stanton Ho, Donald Wressel, Sylvain Leroy, Jody Klocko (our team alternate) and Keegan Gerhard. We relied on Stan, Donald and Sylvain's past experiences with the competition, which were instrumental in our success.
Did your life change after the gold medal?
After we won in 2001, I was asked that all the time. In other countries, particularly France, winning the Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie opens up the door for the future, almost like a launching pad. Many chefs go on to open their own pastry shop or business. I did not have the same goal in mind, so I looked at the experience differently. I certainly did not view it as life changing. Since 2001, I stayed involved with most subsequent teams, managing the most recent team, but I can see the impact of the competition on my career. I have lifelong friendships with the 2001 group, and I have built relationships with pastry chefs worldwide. Through these contacts, my business continues to develop and grow. I realize how small our pastry chef community is. It really is very special.
You have since judged competitions. How does it feel to be on the other side?
It is not easy being a judge. Every competition has different rules and requirements. The most difficult are the ones where the jury members must judge several categories. If the competition is more than one day, the judges must take good notes to remember from one day to the next. The goal is to always be consistent, fair and objective. As a judge, I always remember how it is to be in the booth (competing). When I'm a judge, I take the criteria and break it down according to the point system and the value I put in certain aspects. I look for things like work habit, teamwork and ethic, as well as technical skill, work quality and presentation. I prefer to see a small piece perfectly executed with all techniques mastered rather than a large piece, which, while impressive in size, is short on basic skills. Same with desserts. A simple, perfectly executed dessert using the best ingredients is hard to beat.
And managing Team USA?
When I manage Team USA for the World Pastry Cup, my goal is to help the team with all the details, so they can focus on what they need to do. No matter how much the team does to prepare, nothing counts except competition day. Because this is an international event, there are a lot of logistics involved. Over the years, we have put together a system that works well. We have the entire year prior to the competition scheduled for official deadlines, packing, shipping, etc. I coordinate the sponsors, practices and all necessary plans for the stay in Lyon. We were very fortunate to have established L'Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, Md., as a home base for Team USA. The team owes a lot to the sponsors. With out them, they would not be able to participate.
Do you consider anyone to be a mentor?
I still stay in touch with my chef instructors from the CIA, as well as chefs like Didier Schorner and Sebastien Canonne. Sebastien and Jacquy Pfeiffer now co-own the French Pastry School in Chicago. I joined them this year as a chef instructor. Our business as pastry chefs is very difficult. Pastry cooks and students need guidance to help them to be successful. I admire established pastry chefs who take the time and see the value in mentoring others. We need to share our knowledge with each other.
What challenges do pastry chefs currently face?
One of the biggest challenges that I see now for pastry chefs is the economy. Many pastry chefs are being forced to lay off staff and find other ways (like ordering products from outside) to get their job done. They have fewer opportunities to participate in extra curricular activities like competitions. I find myself thinking a little differently now when I develop my programs or classes. I keep the kitchen situations in mind and try to make the recipes adaptable to the clients' needs.
What do you do when you aren't working?
I love to garden. My husband and I bought a house in Las Vegas with a large backyard specifically to grow edibles. It is a challenge to grow in the desert, but not impossible. I have a huge interest in fruits, so we planted several fruit trees — apples, fig, plum, peach, apricot, pomegranate. We also grow several varieties of wine and table grapes, citruses and nuts (almonds and pistachios). My travel schedule makes it hard to keep up sometimes. I lost last year's almond harvest (all 2 lbs.) because I was away when it was time to pick. I volunteer for the University of Nevada's Cooperative Extension Orchard Project. I have learned a great deal about growing through this program. We also have recently taken up fly-fishing. Soon, I plan to be an expert fly tyer.
See any good movies lately?
I just watched the new (maybe not so new because it was on a plane) James Bond movie, Quantum of Solace. I only watch movies on airplanes these days. I saw Bottle Shock, too recently, about Napa Valley in the 1970s. My all time favorite is Babette's Feast.
What's on your I-Pod?
I carry my I-pod everywhere and listen to French music — it's supposed to help me learn the language.