Workbench

The latest collection of tips, ideas and formulas to help any baker in any bakery. Compiled by Klaus Tenbergen.


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Q: We are formulating several new breads and pastries for our large bakery. Several of these formulations include dry spices. How much spice should we add to get a well balanced formula?
T.M., Donaldsonville, La.

A: I recommend using 1 percent of ground spices, such as cinnamon, based on the total flour weight to create baked products with a balanced flavor profile. As taste is subjective, this recommended percent can be used as a starting point.

Q: We produce our signature banana bread almost every week. We buy bananas in bulk, and were hoping you knew a trick to lengthen the life of the bananas.
Nina, via e-mail

A: I place bananas in plastic grocery bags. Push out the air from the bag, and close it tightly. I have stored bananas up to five weeks in the refrigerator this way without the skins turning dark or the flavor deteriorating quickly. One thing taking place is that the ethylene gas is still active but greatly slowed by the chill of the refrigerator. They still continue to ripen, but at a much slower rate. The bags shield the bananas from dehydration and oxygen.

Q: We want to scale up a formula, but are not sure how to convert from cups to ounces. How much flour is in one cup?
Charlene, via e-mail

A: For consistent results, I always weigh flour and other ingredients. It's very difficult to get consistent weights using a measuring cup. So, I convert the flour in a formula to ounces right from the start.

Flour 0.25 c 0.50 c 1 c
Bread flour 1.19 ozs. 2.38 ozs. 4.75 ozs.
All purpose flour 1.06 ozs. 2.13 ozs. 4.25 ozs.
Cake flour 1.00 oz. 2.00 ozs. 4.00 ozs.
Whole wheat flour 1.13 ozs. 2.25 ozs. 4.50 ozs.
Rye flour 1.00 oz. 2.00 ozs. 4.00 ozs.

Q: When is a sugar solution saturated or supersaturated?
Mai, via e-mail

A: When you add sugar to water, the sugar crystals dissolve and the sugar becomes a solution. When as much sugar has been dissolved as possible, the solution is saturated. The saturation point is different at different temperatures. The higher the temperature, the more sugar that can be held in solution. When you cook a batch of candy, you cook sugar, water and various other ingredients to extremely high temperatures. At these high temperatures, the sugar remains in a solution, even though much of the water has boiled away. But when the candy is done cooking and begins to cool, more sugar is in the solution than is normally possible. The solution is supersaturated with sugar. Super-saturation is an unstable state. The sugar molecules will begin to crystallize back into a solid at the least provocation. Stirring or jostling of any kind can cause the sugar to begin crystallizing.

Q: What are the differences among light, medium or dark molasses?
Dave, via e-mail

A: Molasses is a by-product of cane sugar production. After the cane juice is concentrated, the sucrose crystallizes and is removed from the sugar with a centrifuge. This process is then repeated several times. As more sugar is extracted from the syrup, the ash content of the molasses increases, the flavor becomes stronger and the color becomes darker. Light molasses contains 1.5 percent to 3 percent ash, medium has 3 percent to 6 percent ash, and dark features 7 percent ash.

Q: We make a great fruit bread, and place it on the table to cool, but we are having problems with condensation on the bottom of the breads. How can we prevent this?
M.M., Auburn, Ala.

A: In order to avoid a creation of water from condensation on the bottoms of baked product, they should be immediately removed from the pans and placed on wire cooling racks. This allows for air circulation around the bottom of the bread and helps eliminate soggy bottoms.

Q: Bagels and baguettes are made with the same ingredients, but what gives the bagels such a tight crumb structure?
M.W., Yuma, Ariz.

A: Low hydration of around 50 percent gives bagels their distinct texture and appearance. Additionally, the different baking process and the low hydration results in a dense, tight crumb, which creates a chewy texture.

Q: When baking rich yeast dough, why is it suggested to bake the bread in a cooler oven than artisan breads?
S.S., Texarkana, Ark.

A: In general, rich yeast doughs require not only a cooler oven, but also almost no steam and an open damper. Here are a few reasons why:

  • Sugar-rich doughs take color more readily.

  • Dough with higher butter content will generally have liquid butter between the bottom of the baked product and the sheet pan during the baking process. Even though this may only be a small amount, it will quickly become overheated and lead to burning of the bottom of the baked products.

  • Many yeast doughs are dusted with confectioners' sugar, or spread with macaroon-type mixtures before they are baked. If the temperature is too high at the start, these may be flashed and burned. Similar problems may arise with nuts and kernels that are sprinkled on top of the baked products.

  • Baking certain products, such as panettone or large brioche, too quickly can cause the collapse and marking of the baked products.

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