Klaus Tenbergen

Q: How much salt is in salted butter, and does it make a difference if I use salted or unsalted butter in a formula?
L.K., Cincinnati

A: The amount of salt in salted butter can vary, but it generally contains up to 3 percent salt. That is 15 g of salt per 500 g of butter or 0.5 oz. of salt per 16 ozs. of butter. If you create something with a high percentage of butter, I recommend using unsalted butter because it gives you more control over the amount of salt in the formula. But if the butter is only a small percentage of the total formulation, then the additional salt in the butter becomes insignificant.

Q: I found a great formula in an old cookbook, and it calls for an ingredient I'm unfamiliar with — castor sugar. What is castor sugar?
Roy, via e-mail

A: Castor or caster sugar is the name of a very fine sugar in Great Britain, so named because the grains are small enough to fit though a sugar “caster” or sprinkler. It is sold as “superfine” sugar in the United States, and it is readily available through your supplier.

Q: How many cuts should a French bread/baguette have?
A.K., Sanger, Calif.

A: Before baking, bread should be scored with a bread slashing tool called a lamé, which creates incisions about 1/2 in. deep that overlap and run almost parallel to the center of the loaves. This prevents the formation of random breaks during the first minutes of baking. French bread is cut four times diagonally across the loaf, but the number of cuts may vary depending on the individual baker and the size of the loaf.

Q: What is the best way to package freshly baked artisan bread?
S.W., Calgary, Canada

A: In order to slow down the drying of freshly baked bread and to keep the crust crispy, bread is best stored and sold in waxed paper or in perforated plastic bags.

Q: Rather than boiling dried pears to reconstitute them, can you suggest another method to achieve the same results?
S.S., Pueblo, Colo.

A: Fruit reconstitutes faster in hot liquids. Pour an equal part of heated pear brandy and heated rosewater over the fruit; combine well, and leave covered for 12 to 18 hours. Use as needed.

Q: We use a terrific ganache for many things in our pastry kitchen, but it separates during storage. Is there a way to bring it back together?
Dave, via e-mail

A: Beating ganache with a small amount of heavy cream will re-emulsify the separated ingredients. Ganache should be whipped to soft peaks. Greater agitation only encourages the cocoa butter to crystallize, which will make the ganache stiff and grainy.

Q: We own a retail bakery in New Mexico where we deal with very hard water containing over 210 parts per million of calcium carbonate. Would installing a water softener help us make better artisan breads?
Nathan, via e-mail

A: In general, hard water helps strengthen the gluten in dough and also increases yeast activity as some of the mineral salts serve as yeast food. However, hard water makes bread dough overly strong and resistant to expansion. Medium water with around 75 parts per million of calcium carbonate is considered best for fermentation and gluten development, so having softer water available in your bakery would be beneficial.

Q: What temperature should butter be so it incorporates air easily during creaming?
M.F., Lakeland, Fla.

A: You want to ensure that the butter is between 65°F to 75°F, so it will incorporate the air easily when creamed with sugar. I always use whole eggs at 80°F to achieve an optimal batter temperature.

Q: Does choux paste require water or milk?
S.S., Calgary, Canada

A: When you use all water in the formula, the puffs or éclairs will be crisp; using milk makes the puffs or éclairs tender. You may want to compromise and use half water and half milk.

Q: We sell brown sugar cookies, but want to increase the brown sugar flavor. We now roll the cookie balls in brown sugar before baking, but the brown sugar clumps in some spots. How we can eliminate this?
Marc, via e-mail

A: Cutting the brown sugar with granulated sugar will solve the clumping problem and give you a cookie with added crunch and flavor.

Q: Do you know how much protein is in AP flour?
Heather, via e-mail

A: AP (all-purpose) and H&R (hotel and restaurant) flour varies in protein by manufacturer and varies between 9 percent and 12 percent.

Q: We have been struggling to find a formula for the topping used on a Easter dove bread, also known as Colomba di Pasqua.

Annika, via e-mail

A: The topping consists of only three ingredients, all easily sourced.

Easter dove bread topping

Method: Combine ingredients and mix well. Apply to bread before baking.

Q: Can you provide us with a formula for a “brown” Danish filling?
Alyssa, via e-mail

A: The following “brown” Danish filling has always worked well for me.

“Brown” Danish filling

Method: Combine all ingredients until well blended. Use as desired.