The Workbench
Q: We have heard that mashed potatoes or potato flakes can be used in bread dough to extend the shelf life. Do you have a formula for white bread using potatoes?
S.H., Pocatello, Idaho
A: This formula should meet your needs.
| Ingredients | Lbs. | Ozs. | Metric | Baker's % |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Potatoes * | 6 | 9.7 | 3 kg | 30 |
| Water ** | 12 | 1.7 | 5.5 kg | 55 |
| Bread flour | 22 | 10 kg | 100 | |
| Compressed yeast | 14.1 | 400 g | 4 | |
| Salt | 7.8 | 220 g | 2.2 | |
| Dough conditioner | 7.1 | 200 g | 2 | |
| Total appr. wt. | 42 | 8.4 | 19.32 kg | 193.2 |
| Method: * Cook 4 lbs. 6.5 ozs. (2 kg) of peeled raw potatoes in a good amount of water until they fall apart. Drain and reserve the water. Add 1 liter of tap water to the potatoes and mix until smooth. Allow the potatoes to cool. ** Use all of the reserved liquid from the potatoes as part of the total water. Combine all the ingredients in a large mixing bowl in an upright mixer. With a dough hook, mix on first speed for three minutes (pick-up stage). Scrape down the sides of the bowl, and check the dough consistency. Mix in third speed for seven more minutes. Lightly dust the surface of a workbench, and place the dough on the workbench. Cover to prevent the dough from drying out. Bench rest for 10 minutes. Punch down the dough; fold the dough over to release the gases and supply the yeast with new food. Bench rest another 10 minutes. Divide into 32-oz. (900-g) pieces, round and cover. After 10 minutes bench rest, shape the dough pieces into ovals. Place the loaves, seam up, in prepared proofing baskets that have been dusted with rye flour. Proof at low humidity, 88°F to 95°F (30°C to 35°C), until the dough is doubled in size. Turn over onto a parchment paper-lined sheet pan. Dock and score five times. Bake in a 450°F (232°C) oven with two seconds of steam. Once the bread is placed into the oven, reduce the temperature to 375°F (190°C). Bake for about 30 minutes, or until an internal dough temperature reaches 180°F (82°C). Open the damper the last ten minutes of the bake to achieve a good crust. Yields 21 2-lb. (900-g) loaves |
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Q: How much oil should we use when frying snack foods or donuts?
E.M., Washington, D.C.
A: My rule of thumb is to use at least six times the amount of oil as the product. For example, if I'm frying 1 lb. of donut batter at a time, I will use 6 lbs. of oil in the fryer.
Q: At what ambient temperature are we most sensitive to flavor? Is it true that baked products taste different at various temperatures?
S.B., Frederick, Colo.
A: We are most sensitive to flavor in the 72°F to 105°F temperature range. Sweet and sour sensations seem to be enhanced at the upper level of this temperature range. Salty and bitter flavors are more pronounced at the lower end of this temperature range. But, always keep in mind the time/temperature danger zones.
Source: Techniques of Healthy Cooking by Jennifer S. Armentrout and Graham Kerr, Wiley, John & Sons. Inc.
Q: Paprika is one of the most used spices in our bakery. However, after some time, the spice loses most of its color. Why does this happen?
T. S., Kodiak Island, Alaska
A: Keep paprika cool and dry. Cool means no higher that 68°F (20°C) and dry is no higher than 60 percent relative humidity. If possible, cold storage, 32°F to 45°F (0°C to 7°C), is highly recommended for paprika. At 70°F to 80°F (21°C to 27°C), paprika loses about 1 percent of its color every 10 days. At higher temperatures, losses are even more rapid. In cold storage, however, paprika's color loss is reduced to 0.5 percent every 10 days, and it can be held satisfactorily for up to 6 months. Paprika is light sensitive and needs to be protected against direct exposure to sunlight and florescent lights.
Q: We bake several breads using preferments, which we hold at room temperature for as long as 48 hours. With these long storage times, we seem to lose most of the preferments' effectiveness. Any recommendations on what we can do to solve this problem?
Steven, via e-mail
A: You should store prefermented dough at a low temperature, around 38°F (3°C) for up to 48 hours. Remove the prefermented dough from the refrigerated storage ahead of time to bring it back to room temperature before incorporating it into the final dough. When you use refrigerated preferment, you need to adjust the water temperature in the final dough to compensate for the cooler preferment.
Q: Conchas are one of our new items. However, we need some help with a formula for making the shell topping.
Margie, via e-mail
A: When making the conchas caps, I use the following formula.
| Ingredients | Lbs. | Ozs. | Metric |
|---|---|---|---|
| Confectioners' sugar | 6 | 2.72 kg | |
| Shortening, all-purpose | 6 | 2.72 kg | |
| Pastry flour | 9 | 4.08 kg | |
| Total appr. wt. | 21 | 9.52 kg | |
| Method: Combine the sugar and shortening; add the flour and mix until smooth. Use as needed. The base can be colored if desired. | |||
Q: Every week we accumulate an excess amount of egg whites. Can you provide a basic meringue formula?
D.B., Cleveland
A: I've found this formula to work well.
| Ingredients | Lbs. | Ozs. | Metric |
|---|---|---|---|
| Egg whites | 2 | 3.25 | 1 L |
| Granulated sugar, fine | 2 | 10.25 | 1.2 kg |
| Confectioners' sugar | 1 | 12.25 | 800 g |
| Salt | pinch | 1 g | |
| Vanilla | dash | 5 ml | |
| Total appr. wt. | 6 | 9.75 | 3.006 kg |
| Method: Whip the egg whites with the salt and half of the granulated sugar. Gradually add the remaining granulated sugar until the batter is at full peak. Fold the flavoring and the confectioners' sugar into the batter. Pipe the batter onto a parchment-lined sheet pan. Dry overnight in a 265°F (130°C) oven, open damper, with the heat off. You may want to keep the oven doors apart, as too much heat will brown the meringues and the sugar will crystallize. For a twist, add 14 ozs. (400 g) of lightly toasted, ground hazelnuts. Yields 80 1.25-oz. (37.5-g) pieces | |||
Q: Do you recommend using pasteurized or ultra-pasteurized whipping cream?
L.B., Wolf Hole, Ariz.
A: The amount of butterfat, from 38 to 45 percent, contained in the cream determines how well cream will whip and how stable it will be. Whipping creams are generally labeled pasteurized or ultra-pasteurized. Ultra-pasteurized cream remains fresh longer, but pasteurized cream provides better flavor, whips fluffier and holds up longer.
Q: We want to use edible flowers to decorate some elaborate desserts. Which flowers do you recommend?
E.M., Omaha, Neb.
A: Daylilies — in case you've never nibbled one, daylilies taste like sweet lettuce, although a peach colored variety called Ethel Shepherd tastes like melon. What's great about daylilies is they don't have a lot of pests. Once you receive your delivery, pull the stamens, rinse the flowers to make sure no ants are hiding in them, and shake dry. Then, put them in a plastic bag or container and refrigerate until they're needed.
Q: Can we freeze eggs in the shell?
J.P., Medina, Ohio
A: In general, shell eggs should not be frozen. If an egg accidentally freezes and the shell cracks, discard the egg. Freezing causes the yolk to become thick and syrupy, so it will not flow like an unfrozen yolk or blend very well with the egg white or other ingredients.
Q: We are looking for an almond spread we can use for our Danish pastries.
C.P., Bala Cynwyd, Pa.
A: I have used this formula for many applications.
| Ingredients | Lbs. | Ozs. | Metric |
|---|---|---|---|
| Almond paste | 2 | 910 g | |
| Whole eggs | 1 | 450 ml | |
| Sweet cake crumbs | 12 | 5.45 kg | |
| Water, hot | 4 | 1.815 L | |
| Brown sugar | 6 | 2.72 kg | |
| Shortening, vegetable | 2 | 910 g | |
| Salt | 1 | 28 g | |
| Almond emulsion/extract | 4 | 112 g | |
| Total appr. wt. | 27 | 5 | 12.395 kg |
| Method: Combine the almond paste and shortening with the eggs, and mix until blended. Add the cake crumbs, sugar, salt and flavoring followed by the water. Mix until well combined and smooth. Use as needed for Danish pastries or other products. | |||
Q: We make cream puffs once a week and use them as needed before filling and selling them. The shells lose their crispness over time. What can we do to solve the problem?
Florence, via e-mail
A: Cream puffs are not the best pastries to be stored for a long period of time. But if you have to do so, store the cream puffs at very low relative humidity or in airtight containers. Cool the baked cream puffs thoroughly, otherwise condensation may occur and cause the shells to soften.
Q: How much sugar should we add to whipping cream to achieve a balanced sweetness?
L.A., Mt. Shasta, Calif.
A: Whipping cream with milk fat ranging from 38 to 45 percent can be sweetened with not only granulated sugar, but also with confectioners' sugar, pure maple syrup, liquid honey or other sweeteners. As the judgment of taste is subjective, use the following as a guideline. Add 10 percent of sugar to your whipping cream. One pint of whipping cream requires 1.5 ozs. of sugar, or 1 liter of whipping cream requires 100 g of sugar.
Klaus Tenbergen is certified as a Master Baker in Germany, South Africa and the United States. He is currently an assistant professor at California State University in Fresno, teaching classes in Culinology®-the blending of culinary arts and the science of food. For more information, call 559/278-2164 or contact Klaus Tenbergen at ktenbergen@csu-fresno.edu.
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